Boracay by Bike

BORACAY BY BIKE

VIC ALBORNOZ LACTAOEN GOES OFF THE BEATEN TRACK TO SEE A NOT-QUITE-FORGOTTEN SIDE OF OUR FAVORITE HOLIDAY ISLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GEORGE CABIG

For some reason, being on two, pedal-powered wheels, encourages trust in everyone you meet. There’s an assumption that you’re a good guy; maybe it’s a sense of vulnerability. These days, experiencing this kind of kinship is one of the greatest goals of travel. Boracay is already one of the world’s friendliest places, so whether you’re easing from one resort to another, across the island, or through Puka Shell Beach in the north all the way to Manoc-Manoc in the south, there is no better way to travel.

Boracay’s shoreline cycle path draws hordes of two-wheeled-tourists every year, during the summer and in-between the dry spells of the rainy season. There is something positively therapeutic about pedaling alongside this great shoreline: the section from Punta Bunga to Tambisaan Beach is a strong contender for the most beautiful stretch of Boracay, and it’s so enticingly popular that the shoreline is peppered with all sorts of establishments: sandcastles sit side-by-side with installation art. For most of its length, the ride follows the sea and the road is kept in good condition. In-between points of interest, distances are short so allow plenty of time to explore whatever catches your eye along the shores.

The north east side of the island off Puka Shell Beach from Punta Bunga towards Ilig-Iligan Beach has coves and caves where bats take full flight at dusk. The road here is less travelled and has turns that can be steep and narrow, although enjoyable and still not too rigorous.

Small paths criss-cross most of the island and take intrepid cyclists to unspoilt parts of Boracay. From the main road that runs from north to south of the island down the west coast, it’s possible to see the whole island and veer off to some of the side paths along the way.

HIGHLIGHTS
Mountain views

Mount Luho is a great place to kick-off an adventure. It’s 100 meters above the sea and the ascent is easy, winding with some rough, but manageable, roads. The best route is the steep road, going north from Bulabog. This is on the eastern side of the island so you get away from White Beach and suddenly notice a quieter world, with only the sounds of birds and the sight of occasional distant bancas (boats).

At the summit, leave your bike, pay the entrance fee of PHP50 (USD1.15) and begin the final part of your climb on foot. The bird’s eye views are stunning from its improvised wooden view deck, over Boracay and the neighboring island of Romblon.

Bat caves and wildlife

Yapak is more popularly known as Puka Shell beach. Be sure to take in the huge variety of scenery along the steep road on the way. There are exotic animals, trees and flowers, small harvested cornfields and the last area of virgin forest. Old-timers in the area say that this is where you can see Boracay as it was many years ago – lonely huts, fields of wild grass, rare flowers and dense groves. Forests remain an important part of the island. This is home to the island’s flying foxes or fruit bats. Their numbers are dwindling as their environment is gradually eroded thanks to human encroachment, but ongoing conservation is being organized by the locals together with some charitable foundations to save and protect this indigenous species. There’s a very keen awareness of preserving the habitat and peace of the bats, so be careful not to disturb the sleep of these nocturnal animals. Even further inland, continue on the secondary roads that connect to the main road into jungle areas, only accessible by bike, where if you’re lucky you can still see wild monkeys and even waran (large monitor lizards).

Secluded beach and shopping

Further along from the bat caves, stay on the road to Puka Shell beach and this denser part of Boracay leads to a tree-lined path along nipa huts and a public school all the way to the secluded beach, where you can succumb to some great souvenir finds. A makeshift row of huts sells shells, pearls, beads, hats, batik, shirts and island bags for reasonable prices, if you don’t want the hassle of the shopping scene at D’Mall or D’ Talipapa.


WHERE TO RENT A BIKE

Boracay Fun & Sports Shop, D’Mall, White Beach, tel 036 288 5941. Renting by the hour PHP75 (USD1.72) or for a whole six-hour day (PHP450 (USD10.32).

If you really get bitten by the biking bug, you can join the Cyclone MTB (Mountain Bikers Boracay) Club for their Sunday bike tours of Panay Island, or for one of the races they occasionally organize.
WHERE TO EAT



Ole Spanish Tapas Bar and Restaurant (D’Mall, White Beach tel: 036 288 5940) is a different treat on the island. Try their Cuban dish, Fricase De Pollo, chicken cooked with onion bell pepper, tomato sauce and potatoes, or their version of Costillitas – baby back pork ribs with garlic, cooked with oregano and olive oil.
WHERE TO STAY

Escondido Beach Resort Hotel

(Boat Station 1, tel 036 288 4777) is tucked away near a side street of the island’s only church. “Escondido” is the Spanish word for hideaway, and this hotel has 15 tastefully furnished rooms facing either a landscaped garden or Boracay’s hillside. It is not your typical beachfront accommodation, but its modern yet Filipino design and friendly staff make your stay here unique, using furniture made of Vigan narra hardwood, such as wooden chests.
HOW TO GET THERE

Caticlan
Cebu Pacific Air now flies direct to Caticlan (via Cebu and Manila) with our new ATR72 aircraft. These are mini planes that land in Caticlan, only a 15 minute boat ride from Boracay.

Kalibo
We also fly to Kalibo from Manila and Cebu every day with connecting flights from Bacolod, Cagayan de Oro, Davao, Dumaguete, Iloilo, Tagbilaran and Tacloban.
NEW HAPPENINGS ON BORACAY

The Tides

There’s a new hotel on the island that takes a different approach to the usual. The Tides (tel 036 725 3411, www.. tidesboracay.com), is a stylish, minimalist boutique hotel, conveniently located at D’Mall. It has two types of well appointed rooms with Zen-like names, Essential and Exceptional, each one individual.

Noted young Filipino chef Fernando Aracama, will manage the kitchen’s two dining outlets: the Sun Deck Bar & Café and the Courtyard Café. On the rooftop, an infinity pool overlooks the blue sea, ideal for hot lazy mornings, breezy afternoons or watching the sunset.

Discovery Shores

The opening of Discovery Shores (Station 1, Balabag, tel 036 288 4500) turned the sleepy island of Boracay into a bona fide luxury destination. It features 88 luxurious guest rooms, and top of the range facilities that wouldn’t look out of place in Thailand’s Koh Samui. The well known Mandala Spa will soon open to give treatments in a separate part of the complex.